Botev Peak

Worth a detour

At 2,376 metres this is the top of the whole Balkan chain — after Rila and Pirin, the high point of the third of Bulgaria's great ranges — and unlike Musala there is no lift to shorten it. The reward is the length of the ridge running away east and west, and the drop into the Kalofer cirque behind you. The summit itself is occupied by a weather station and a large radio mast, which is worth knowing before you set off.

Story

Background

Botev is the roof of Stara Planina, and it does not look like it from below. The mountain presents a long grass-and-scree wall above Kalofer rather than a peak, and the summit plateau when you reach it is broad, windy and cluttered: a meteorological station, service buildings, and a radio tower opened in 1966 that broadcasts to most of the country. Purists complain. It is also the reason there is shelter up there when the weather turns, which it does fast.

The classic approach starts north of Kalofer at Panitsite and follows the Tundzha valley up to the Rai hut at about 1,435 metres — three to four hours, and a reasonable place to break the trip. Above the hut the route passes Raysko Praskalo, the highest waterfall in the country, and then takes the Tarzan path: a steep zig-zag through rock with fixed steel cable at two points. Dry and calm it is a scramble. Wet, iced, or in cloud it is the part of the mountain that hurts people.

Done as one push from the road it is a very long day with something like 1,800 metres of climbing. Split over two with a night at Rai it becomes a good trip rather than an endurance test, and you get the summit early, before the afternoon cloud builds. Either way, check the forecast twice and be willing to turn around — the ridge has no quick way off.